My beloved husband and I will be heading to the beach for the holiday weekend to spend some time with my family.  We plan to do some diving and hopefully get a chance to see the 17th Century shipwreck that was discovered in Corolla this winter!

More importantly though I plan to take my jacket with me so that I may spend several evenings in a row working on it.  If all goes well I’ll be finishing off the first sleeve and the gores buy Monday evening.

Today I wanted to share a YouTube video with you all on the Plaited Braid Stitch.  I originally ran across it when a friend of mine posted it to her live journal.  I’ll be using this stitch on my seams once the jacket is ready to assemble.  I found this tutorial very useful and wanted to share it with you all as well.

Enjoy!


I’m not quite sure what the issue is but lately I’ve found that I’ve been feeling very distracted with regards to my various projects and I haven’t been feeling like I’m really getting a lot done.  Oddly I’ve been feeling like I used to be able to get so much more done than I have these past few months.  Logically though I know I must be getting something done because my FR articles are finished and free time seems to be at an even higher premium than usual.  Years ago I used to keep yearly project lists of the things I was working on, things I had finished, and projects I wanted to start over the course of that year.  I sort of stopped tracking them though in early 2009.  Why?  I have no idea.

So in an effort to really compare what I’ve been doing this year with what I had accomplished in years past I decided that I need to revive my old project lists.  So far I’ve found one from 2008 and one from 2009.  I’m fairly certain I kept ones for 2007 and 2006 as well but I’m still looking for them.

Here’s my list from 2008:

2008 Projects

Black silk suit Finished! Jan 2008
Red Wool Hood Finished! Feb 2008
Silver’s Gryps and Clozes Finished! Mar 2008
Linen GFG/Kirtle Finished! Mar 2008
Linen Surcoat Finished! Apr 2008
Second Linen Surcoat Finished! Apr 2008
Gamboised Cuisses, 2 pair Finished! May 2008
Arming Vest Finished! May 2008
Padded leather fencing doublet Linen Proof of Concept Finished! May 2008
Linen Suit Finished! June 2008
White Linen 63 Finished! July 2008
Scarletwork Coif Finished! Dec 2008
Swetnam Article One Finished! Dec 2008
Complete In Progress Silver Article Finished! Dec 2008

Not too shabby.  I finished at least one project a month except for August-November when I was focusing on my coif.  I don’t embroider very quickly.

I had to go back and use my blog to recreate most of it but in 2009 my list looked like this:

2009 Projects

Get my fencing in top notch shape In progress
Wool Jacket Finished! March 2009
Embroidered Jacket Started August 2009
Black Bias Cut linen Hosen Finished! March 2009
Green Bias Cut linen Hosen Finished! March 2009
Blue Linen Fencing Doublet Finished! May 2009
Scarletwork Forehead Cloth Finished! September 2009

I got some things done but I spent most of my free SCA time fencing and embroidering.  And there’s nothing wrong with that.  It was really quite enjoyable. :)   But it does mean that I have finished fewer projects.  Especially since my jacket was one of the things I was spending most of my time on.

So now that I’ve had a chance to go back and look at what I accomplished of over 2008 and 2009 I needed to create a list for 2010.

2010 Projects

Get my fencing in top notch shape In progress
Embroidered Jacket In progress: Started August 2009
Flander’s Gown In progress
Saviolo Dueling Blog Series Finished! June 2010 (Combined with class)
Silver Training Blog Series In progress
Swetnam Training Blog Series In progress
Early Modern English Dueling Class Finished! June 2010
Steampunk Gown Finished! January 2010
Wrapped and Stuffed Buttons @ Etsy Opened! January 2010
Grey Wool Bias Cut Hosen Finished! February 2010
Linen Kirtle Finished! April 2010
White Linen Bias Cut Stockings Finished! April 2010
16th-17th Century Stocking Tutorial Finished! April 2010
Blue Linen Bias Cut Hosen Finished! May 2010
14th Century Hosen Tutorial Finished! May 2010

Hmmm…no wonder I feel distracted.  I’ve accomplished much more than I thought I had but I have let several “In progress” projects accumulate at once.  Normally I try to keep it to one or two.  Plus three of those projects are blog series.  I should certainly be trying to limit those to one at a time.  So for now, no more new blog series!  I need to finish these first! :)   I don’t have too many sewing projects going at once, just my Flander’s Gown and my jacket but they did get pushed to the back burner while I worked on some others.  I definitely want to get back to back to work on them once my second article is turned in.  I will also probably place my Saviolo dueling series on the back burner since it’s so similar to the class that I’m working on for June Univeristy.  And I’m going to add a few more items to the planning list to start on once I’ve finished my gown and jacket.

2010 Project Plans

Get my fencing in top notch shape In progress
Embroidered Jacket In progress: Started August 2009
Flander’s Gown In progress
Saviolo Dueling Blog Series Finished! June 2010
Silver Training Blog Series In progress
Swetnam Training Blog Series In progress
Early Modern English Dueling Class Finished! June 2010
Steampunk Gown Finished! January 2010
Wrapped and Stuffed Buttons @ Etsy Opened! January 2010
Grey Wool Bias Cut Hosen Finished! February 2010
Linen Kirtle Finished! April 2010
White Linen Bias Cut Stockings Finished! April 2010
16th-17th Century Stocking Tutorial Finished! April 2010
Blue Linen Bias Cut Hosen Finished! May 2010
14th Century Hosen Tutorial Finished! May 2010
Green Linen GFG (pieces cut out)
French-Cut gown
Red Silk Bodies (have fabric and boning)
A new linen suit
Natural Form Gown

Postponed Projects

(HMA)
Di Grassi Series
Di Grassi Class
Swetnam Class
Arming Garments Class

(Sewing and Embroidery)
Blackwork shirt
Red Wool Suit
1530′s Tudor gown
1530′s petticoat
1530′s Kirtle
English Hood
1605 Gown
Embroidered Night Cap
Blackwork sleeves
Blackwork partlet
Doublet and Pluderhosen
Edwardian Lingerie Gown

Since so many of you have expressed interest in more tutorials and demos I thought I would start off this week with a very simple one that a friend requested on Facebook not too long ago.

The Question: How did I make a pattern for my embroidered forehead cloth?

Forehead cloths are basically triangles of linen that were often worn with coifs to keep hair and sweat out of your eyes.  While they could be plain they were also often decorated with embroidery and there a numerous examples of forehead cloths embroidered to mach coifs.

When I made mine I wanted it to match my scarletwork coif.  (As the embroidery pattern I used to create my coif was made by my dear friend Laura Mellin I would like to take a moment to plug her awesome embroidery patterns. All of her patterns are meticulously researched and based on historical embroidery designs. Her entire line of Extreme Patterns embroidery designs is available online through Reconstructing History.)  

So I started with my coif pattern as the base for creating my forehead cloth pattern.

My basic coif patternTo the left is a sketch of a basic coif pattern.  (Be kind people.  I drew all of this up on MS Paint! :) )  Since I was going to embroider the forehead cloth to match the coif it was important that I use the same embroidery pattern and I wanted to repeats to be the same as well.

The first thing I did was find the center of the pattern (indicated in the sketch to the right as the dashed line.  I then selected the point on that center line where I wanted the bottom of the point of my forehead cloth to fall and drew two equal lines from it to the top points of the coif.  This formed an upside down isosceles triangle.  At that point I basically had my pattern. 

Cut out a mockup from a scrap of muslin to make sure it fits the way you want it to.  Once you have your forehead cloth pattern traced out onto your fabric you can begin transfering the embroidery design.  I just traced my pattern out on linen, laid it over my coif pattern making sure to line up the top line and center my pattern and simply transfered my embroidery pattern directly from the coif.

In the end mine turned out like this:

If you are interested in making a coif or forehead cloth for yourself please let me highly recommend Laura’s pattterns which, as I said earlier, are available online through Reconstructing History.

*I am always happy to accept requests for tutorials.  If you have a suggestion or a request please feel free to email me or leave a comment.  My contact information is readily available on my Bio page.

While I have enjoyed the much needed break I took from my jacket I am now happily back to stitching again.   I spent about 4 hours on it two weekends ago while I visited and geeked with Kate and last night I spent another two hours relaxingly stitching away on it.  I really needed the break because I found I was getting to the point that I dreaded working on it and it was stressing me out.  Whenever you find yourself at that point with a project just stop!  Take a week, or two, or six.  Do something else and come back to it later.  You will be happy that you did. 

I’m really enjoying working on this project again.  I’m still taking it slow.  I’m not driving myself to meet any weekly goals of hours worked.  I’m just enjoying the process of making back flowers. :)

I can’t believe it is December 16th.  A lot of people review the previous year at the beginning of the new one but I like to take a look at things a little earlier.  This allows me to evaluate how I did with my old goals and begin to lay the ground work for new ones. 

2009 Goals

  1. Improved Health and Physical Fitness
  2. Improved Fencing
  3. Finish 3 projects: Embroidered Shirt, Embroidered Jacket, Silver and Swetnam HMA project 

How did I do? 

Well, it’s really kind of a mixed bag to be honest.  One of the things I failed to do when setting goals for the New Year was to make them measureable goals.  I did improve my health and physical fitness.  It’s not where I want it to be or where I thought it would be by now but it is “improved”.  It’s the same with my fencing.  My game has “improved” but with out a benchmark for what “improved” means to me it is hard to measure whether or not I really accomplished anything.  As for my 3 projects: I started my embroidered jacket (although it is FAR from finished), I did not start the embroidered shirt project, and the Silver and Swetnam project morphed about 6 months into the year.  I started out with one idea of what I wanted to do but as I progressed down that path I realized that I really wanted to do something else.  The original project has since become the training manuals I’m publishing in installments on this blog so in a way did start it but it too is far from finished. 

So what does this mean for 2010? 

First it means that I need to set actual measureable goals.  I’m sure you’ve all heard the smart acronym before.  My goals need to be specific, measureable, attainable, realistic, and timely (or tangible, your choice).  This will help me set achievable goals that I can actually measure and track my progress towards.  A big improvement over last year! :)   I think I did do the right thing by keeping my goal list short last year.  I often feel that if I set too many goals that they get lost in mess and I never really accomplish much towards them.  So I am going to continue the trend of keeping my list to 6 goals. 

2010 Goals 

1)      Continue to work on my physical fitness and fighting.  I want to have completed a 5K by this summer (even if it means I have to hold my own), and be able to do 20 pullups and 100 pushups by the end of the year.  I will also attend at least one practice weekly and set a schedule for drills.

2)      Only have one embroidery project at a time.  Until it’s finished this means my jacket.  I am setting a goal of 10 hours of embroidery per week for this project.  If I meet those 10 hours I can spend the rest of my free project time working on other sewing projects or getting more embroidery finished.

3)      Do more sewing. I spent most of my project time this year working on embroidery projects which means I spent very little time actually sewing clothing.  I made some rapier armor but that was about it.  I really would like some new clothes and I already have several projects lined up: new shirts, a Flanders gown, new rapier armor, a pourpoint, and a jupon (as well as some ideas for household livery).  So I am setting a goal of finishing at least one sewing project a month.  More complicated projects, such as the fur lined Flanders gown, may take longer and may be broken up into smaller projects.  Similarly simple projects, like shirts, may be combined.

4)      Learn to play 2 pieces of music appropriate to Elizabethan England by Pennsic.  I will be starting classical guitar lessons in January which I am very excited about.  I used to play guitar several years ago (although not classical) so I think being able to play 2 simple Elizabethan pieces by Pennsic is very doable.  We’ll see though.  I may have to reevaluate this one in March depending on how I progress.

5)      Spend more time with my students.  I don’t know that I can actually set this goal by myself.  I think we all should sit down together this winter and set some activities (practices, workshops, events, etc) that we want to do together. 

6)      Continue to post Silver and Swetnam installments weekly.

Evaluating and Tracking my Progress

Ideally I would like to evaluate my progress monthly or at least quarterly.  I didn’t do that this last year and I wish I had.  So starting in January I will be posting here once a month about my progress on each of these goals. 

What needs to be accomplished by the end of January? 

1)      I need to be in the gym at least 3 days per week.

2)      I need to accomplish at least 40 hours of embroidery between Jan 1 and Jan 31.

3)      I need to order fabric for at least one project.

4)      I need to actually start lessons.

5)      I need to get together with the guys to talk about things we would like to do together between now and April.

6)      Post at least 4 Silver or Swetnam installments.

I know that many of you have also been following the creation of the Plimoth Jacket at Thistle-Threads.com.  Yesterday they posted pictures of their model wearing the finished jacket!!!  It’s just gorgeous!  A truly amazing project that I have really enjoyed following.  Go check it out!

Wow!  I knew the jacket pictures were popular but not quite how popular they really were.  Elizabethan Mafia had more unique visitiors Tuesday coming to see the new jacket pictures than I have ever had before!  You guys are awesome and I just wanted to say thank you for all support and your lovely comments on the blog, facebook, and livejournal.

Left sleeve as of 12/07/2009.

Left sleeve as of 12/07/2009.

Current pictures of the Jacket project are finally up!  Check em out!  And for all you patience please enjoy bonus pictures of our Christmas tree. :)

I’m officially back from one of the most lovely holidays I have had in a very long time.  We spent our Thanksgiving up at the family farm in Como, NC.  Don’t worry, I don’t really expect anyone else to know where that is as it’s about as rural North Eastern North Carolina as you can get. :)   Despite our lack of internet access (I know. I don’t know how I survived either ;) ) we had an incredibly lovely time.  I got to spend time with my family, bake and cook with my husband, sleep in, read, embroider, nap, and talk family genealogy with my cousin Janet.  She’s done a TON of work with her side of the family and it really inspired me to get back to work on my own.  I don’t remember the last time I came home feeling so relaxed and happy after a family visit. 

Since I was late with my October jacket update I wanted to make sure that this month I was on time. 

Although I made good headway on my sleeve I did not get it finished.  I was a little bummed because I had really wanted to have it finished but in the end I think my biggest problem was setting a schedule that was too aggressive.  I think perhaps I need to take some of my own advice and break it down a bit further and set some smaller goals.  It does look really gorgeous though.  I found my self just staring at it several times over the weekend thinking how lovely it will look when it’s done.  I’ll be posting pictures tonight so stay tuned! 

My PerCoFiMo this past month met with mixed success.  I finished my black wool hood which I was very happy about but I found that I wasn’t really pulled to work on any of the other projects.  I did a bit of mending but mostly when I had time to work on a project I wanted to work on the jacket so that’s what I did.  Sometimes the muse is stronger than others and you need to take advantage of it when it is. :)  

As for future projects, I discovered this month that I am in desperate need of new rapier armor.  What I have doesn’t really fit well.  My pants are too big and I’m not really happy with my current fighting doublet pattern.  I’m not swimming in it like I was in the old one but I’m not really happy with the waist line and I like the neck line either.  Plus the button holes are too big for the buttons and they keep popping out.  So I’m decommissioning it into a practice doublet and starting anew.  I’ll be placing a fabric order shortly after Christmas.  I also picked up some patterns from Reconstructing History at Holiday Faire.  I picked up their Flanders Gown pattern, their Pourpoint pattern, and their 14th Century Jupon pattern.  And in addition to projects for me Coty has some things he’d like too.  So I’m looking forward to a lot of sewing this winter.  Looks like I need to sit down, make a list, and set some priorities!  So what about y’all?  Do you have any projects you are planning this winter?

Detail from the left sleeve of my jacket.

Detail from the left sleeve of my jacket.

My apologies for being absent Friday.  I was feeling a bit under the weather.  The good news though is that I’m fairly certain it had more to do something I ate than any seasonal bug and after taking some time this weekend to rest I’m feeling much better. 

While I was resting up this weekend I spent some time working on several of my current projects.  I finished my wool hood and got in some good work on my jacket.  If I can just stay on schedule I should have the left sleeve and the gores done by the end of the month. 

This jacket is probably the most long term project I have ever worked on.  I’ve estimated it will take around 1000 hours to complete and so far I’m only a little over half way through the first sleeve.  While it’s my first major long term project (500-1000 hrs) I’m sure it will not be my last (I already know I want to do at least one other jacket…I know, it’s crazy) and I’ve been learn quite a lot about how to keep focused and motivated and stave off those pesky feelings of being overwhelmed. 

Big dreams have lots of parts 

At 1000 hours the jacket is a huge project and it’s easy to get overwhelmed when you’re looking at the whole thing.  But every big project can be easily broken down into parts.  The jacket itself is made up of 11 pieces (2 sleeves, 1 right front, 1 right back, 1 left front, 1 left back, and 5 gores) and each of those pieces can be broken down further into outlining, fill stitches, and spangles before we even begin to consider assembly.  Just focus on breaking your project down into its individual pieces and set smaller goals for each of those pieces.  The smaller goals will help keep you motivated and by breaking it down into smaller more manageable pieces you are less likely to become overwhelmed but the larger project. 

Sometimes you just need a break 

It’s true.  No matter how focused you are on your project or how motivated you are to finish sometimes you may just need a break.  And that’s ok!  Take a day or too off.  Relax.  Work on something else if you want to.  Read a book.  No matter what you do just take some time for you.  You’ll be able to come back to your project renewed and ready to finish. 

Finishing a small project can keep you going 

Sometimes just finishing a small project can up your motivation.  A few weeks ago a friend of mine suggested reorganizing my project list for my PerCoFiMo so that I would finish my shortest projects first.  The idea is that by getting shorter projects finished you feel more accomplished and boost motivation for larger projects.  And you know what…it works!  I felt much more accomplished and motivated after finishing my hood than I did when I was just powering through the jacket.  Finishing it gave me a little boost and helped keep me excited about my other projects. 

Sometimes you really just have to sit down and do it 

Oftentimes the hardest part of doing something is just getting started.  It’s been a couple days (or a couple weeks) since you last worked on your project and you find that your motivation and momentum have waned.  That’s ok.  Sometimes all we need to get going is to just get started again.  Maybe you don’t have a lot of time and all you can spare is 15 min.  That’s great.  If you spend those 15 min working on your project you’ll be 15 min closer to being done.  You also might find that after spending 15 min working on your project you’ve once again found your groove.

 

Large, long term projects can be hard to complete just based on the amount of time they take.  It’s hard to stay motivated and focused for that long.  But with a few simple tricks and maybe a break or two you’ll be on you way to finishing.

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