I spent all weekend working on my Flanders gown.  I completely finished pad stitching all the fur to the linen lining.  I cut out the new interlining.  I cartridge pleated the kirtle skirt to the bodice.  In other words I took my snowed in weekend and really made some magic.  I thought I’d be ready to start cutting out the fashion layer and assembling the gown this week!

I was soooooooo wrong.

The fulled wool padding I added to the kirtle skirt to give it a little more body worked overtime!   The skirt now stands ~4” out from the bodice.  That’s WAY too much.  I originally added the padding because the linen I was using for the kirtle lacked the body to give the skirt the fullness that I wanted.  The skirt is 180 inches in circumference and in retrospect I might not have needed to add the padding after all.  Had I made the skirt only 120 inches in circumference as I had originally considered then I expect I would have needed it. However, when I decided to add in the extra 60 inch panel I probably should have dropped the padding.  Now I will need to take the skirt off, remove the padding layer and cartridge pleat it back on again.  Ugh!

The worst part though?  When I tried on the gown bodice lining with the kirtle the fur split in several places!  I’m SO frustrated over this!  And I’m not sure what the problem is.  The fur I used for the bodice came from a coat whose skins were more delicate than the others so the problems might be with the skins themselves.  It’s possible I was too rough taking it on and off but I tried to be pretty careful so if I was too rough then I’m not sure the bodice lining as it is could stand up to regular wear like it needs to.  So I might need to rethink the way I’m doing the lining.  Whatever the reason is though I’m too frustrated with it right now to deal with it.  I’m letting it sit until tomorrow.  Hopefully by then I will be less frustrated and can better evaluate the problem and decide on the solution I want to use.

If anyone happens to have any experience with this though please feel free to let me know!

The take away message?  Sometimes even when you take your time and work carefully you will still run into problems, setbacks, and frustrations.  Life is made of setbacks.  The thing that really matter is what you do with them.  And sometimes the best thing you can do is to set the project down, distract yourself, and come back to it the next day when you can look at it again with fresh eyes.  Personally every time I have tried to power through when I was really frustrated with a project I only made it worse.  Sometimes the best thing really is to leave it until tomorrow.

But if you want to see a picture of how awesome the fur lining looked before everything blew up there’s a picture in my gallery. ;)

Sunday morning I sat down to work on kirtle bodice.  Many thanks to all of you for weighing on whether to bone them or make a separate pair of bodies.  In the end though I did decide to bone the kirtle bodice.  Not only will this give me extra time to work on the project but it will also mean that I have a second boned kirtle that I could wear with a partlet and smock in the summer time.

First Things First

The first thing I did was determine the which size I needed based on the directions and the measurements on the back of pattern.  With high quality patterns like the Reconstructing History patterns I don’t like to cut the patterns out.  With modern tissue patterns I don’t care but I like to keep my nice patterns whole and in good condition should I need to remake it in a new size later.   So I trace out the correct size pattern on new paper and make all my corrections and changes to that.  When I’m done that traced pattern will be placed into the pattern sleave so that if I don’t change sizes I have it for next time. :)   My grandmother would be so proud.  Even her tissue patterns were in pristine condition. :)

Making up the Interlining

I’m going to be honest.  I did all my fitting and altering with the interlining rather than making a mockup.  Now this is fine if you are ok with the fact that this may very well mean that you will have to redo everything.  In fact I had to complettely redo my back pieces because the straps were too short.  I needed another 4.5 inches and piecing on the bias is made of fail.  But redoing that back pieces to lengthen the straps was all I needed to fix.  Everything else fit wonderfully.  I decided to use the Dorthea bodies boning pattern to give a more rounded bust rather than fully boning the front as I usually do and everything is boned with reed boning that I also happened to pick up from Reconstructing History last year. :)   There are pictures of my completted (and in progress) interlining up in my gallery.

Sadly there are no pictures yet of me trying the interling on but I did have my wonderful husband hold it closed so I could make sure it did fit correctly and place the straps where I wanted them.  For an interlining it looked great but I am am kinda happy it will all be covered up by the lining and the fashion fabric. :)   All in all it took me 4 hours to finish the interling.  The next step is finishing the bodice.  For those of you who are interested I will be using the fabric below for the kirtle.  I plan to use the navy blue linen for the fashion fabric and it will be fully lined in the red linen.

Red and blue linen for the kirtle.

Red and blue linen for the kirtle.

I’ve been pretty quiet for the past several days.  Technically I’m still on holiday until the 4th and I’ve been spending my time working on one of my goals for 2009.  I’ve been working on a new sewing project.  It’s pretty different from my usual projects but I though you guys might like it and I want to share some pictures. 

We’re going to a steampunk party for New Year’s eve and I needed something to wear.  Preferably something with sleeves as Thursday night promises to be very cold.

A gown I made for a New Year's Steampunk party.

A gown I made for a New Year's Steampunk party.

 

Side view

Side view

All I have left to do today is add the buttons.  It was a really fun project and I enjoyed the opertunity to play with the steam aesthetic.  If you all are interested there are more pictures available at my gallery.

Wow!  I knew the jacket pictures were popular but not quite how popular they really were.  Elizabethan Mafia had more unique visitiors Tuesday coming to see the new jacket pictures than I have ever had before!  You guys are awesome and I just wanted to say thank you for all support and your lovely comments on the blog, facebook, and livejournal.

Left sleeve as of 12/07/2009.

Left sleeve as of 12/07/2009.

Current pictures of the Jacket project are finally up!  Check em out!  And for all you patience please enjoy bonus pictures of our Christmas tree. :)

With October ending and November beginning I wanted to take some time update everyone on my Jacket Project progress, asses the status of my PerCoFiMo projects, set some priorities*, and estimate the amount of time I think each will take over the next month. 

The Jacket Project 

My jacket currently stands at 18 hours in with an estimated 35 hours to finish the current sleeve and gores (btw I have a couple new pics up of how it looks so far).  Obviously this is my top priority for PerCoFiMo.  I had two events last month that needed prep work and I let myself get side tracked on some other things as well so I really need to buckle down and get in my 10hrs a week on the project. 

Black Wool Hood 

My hood is very close to done.  All the seams are sewn and all that’s left to do is the flat felling.  This all needs to be done by hand but, based on the hood I made for Coty last year, I’m estimating it will only take me about 5 hours to finish.  Since this should be quick to knock out I’m going to set this as 2nd priority for PerCoFiMo in the hopes that getting something knocked out quickly will help renew my inspiration to finish others. 

Falling Band and Cuffs 

The falling band and cuffs are my 3rd priority because I really want them for 12th Night. I’m not making new clothes for 12th Night because my black silk suit fits very nicely again but I do want to make a nice falling band and set of cuffs for myself to spiff it up.  I’ll be sewing them completely by hand but I don’t really have an estimate yet on how long it will take me. 

Green Linen GFG 

Next to the jacket I expect this will probably take the most time.  Everything is cut out but I need to take the pattern in a bit and nothing in sewn together yet.  I really want to finish this gown because I love my red linen one so much and want another comfy GFG for spring and summer.  It will be mostly machine sewn although all the visible finishing will be done by hand.  I’m thinking about making this my 4th priority though since I probably won’t be wearing it much until the spring. 

Complete mending

 Part of me wants to take this one totally off the list because a PerCoFiMo is supposed to be fun and I hate mending.  On the other hand the point of having a PerCoFiMo is to push yourself to finish all the things that you’ve been putting off and the mending definitely fits that bill.  So I don’t really know what I’m doing with this one yet.

Begin Flander’s Gown

Now this is tough because it’s a project I’m really excited about but at the very least I need to get through my falling band and cuffs before I really get it started.  So this may be bumping the GFG out of 4th place.  I have my fabric and I have the fur.  I need to order linen for the lining and make a decision about the pattern.

 

*Note: most priorities are subject to change based on the whim of the project executor.

This past weekend was Midnight at the Oasis and I had a great time. I will be posting thoughts on my fighting later today or tomorrow but until then I have pictures from the event (mostly of court) as well as pictures of my jacket (we’re currently at 10hrs embroidery time).

Work continues.

I worked on several projects this weekend. I didn’t get a whole lot accomplished on any one of them but over all I enjoyed myself immensely and got quite a bit done overall.

Sadly I had to abandon JoomGallery. There was an update and I kept getting really confusing error messages that I could not find solutions to. I also started having issues with my Gallery 2 install again so I eventually switched this weekend to another gallery. I know, story of my life. Be sure to tune in next week when something new happens I have to do it all over again. :)

I am still working on transferring the embroidery design for my jacket on to linen. It’s been taking A LOT longer than I thought it would but it fun to finally be really starting on the project. It’s going to take me FOREVER to embroider but that’s ok. I’ll be able to do it all in front of the TV watching all the fabulous and awful movies that I love to watch while working on projects so it won’t be so bad. It’s not like I’ll be locked up in some sweatshop somewhere until it’s done. ;) I did snap a few pictures thoughso you can see how the transfer is coming along and see the design. I’ve also been working on a brief write up of the project so far for my website (mostly a discussion of the design, my research, inspiration pieces, etc.) and I’m hoping to have that up soon. I’ve also put the first of many articles about the project up on my site. This first article is about the creation of my design and I hope you enjoy it.

I did some more embroidery on my forehead cloth Saturday evening. I still have about a third of it left to go and I need to decide how much fill work I want to do since most of it will be under my coif anyway. It’s so cute though and it’s been a really fun little project.

In other news I have decided to bring back a feature that I had on my site several years ago: The Weekly Inspiration. There will be some differences this time around. Rather than focusing solely on England and Europe during Elizabeth’s reing, this time I will be expanding the Weekly Inspirations to include the entire Early Modern period and including modern reproductions, household items, and arms and armor in addition to protraits and historical clothing. I have not yet decided which day of the week I’ll post updates on but Friday’s are high in the running. I have though already put up this week’s inspiration: a gorgeous blackwork smock from the V&A collections.

I’m exceptionally pleased with myself.

I’ve replaced my old Gallery 2 gallery with a JoomGallery that is incorporated into my site and looks so much nicer than the old one. Those of you who are actually good with computers with probably think this I’m very silly for being so excited but that’s ok. :) This now means that I can fully devote my attentions to finishing putting my pictures up. I’ll need to redo the few galleries I had gotten back up but I don’t really mind. I really am much happier with the look of the new gallery. The old was ok and Gallery 2 had served me well for quite many years but it just never seemed to fit with my new site layout. While having to move my site has been a bit of a pain it has been a really great catalyst for getting me off my bum and making me finish doing all the things that I had intended to do. There are no more bits of the old site cluttering up my web space and everything just looks and feels so much more integrated and cohesive.

In other news I got work done on several of my projects over the weekend. I got together with friends Friday evening and Saturday for some sewing fun. We had a blast and everyone got something done. I’ve patterned the bodice lining for my 18th Century gown and finished my pocket hoops so I can finish patterning the outer bodice and skirt. I finished futzing with the layout of the embroidery design for my jacket however I’ve decided that I will need enlarge it after all so that I don’t have to move the pattern around when I transfer it to my fabric. So it will need to go to Kinko’s after all since I think I will need at least another repeat of the design. I should be able to get out to Kinko’s sometime this week if not this weekend so it’s not so bad. I also got some work done on the embroidery for my forehead cloth. Not a whole lot, but some and every little bit done is a little less I have left to do. :)

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